The Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers cut through dramatic glacial valleys to flow into temperate rainforest — a combination found almost nowhere else on Earth. While glaciers worldwide are retreating, these two still flow remarkably close to sea level, making them unique relics of the last Ice Age and some of the most accessible glaciers in the world. They are, without question, a must-see on any South Island trip.
How the Glaciers Work
South Westland lies in the path of the "Roaring Forties" — a band of wind that drives weather onto the West Coast, forcing moisture to rise over the Southern Alps and drop as rain and snow. Approximately 30 metres of snow falls on the glacier catchment areas every year. This snow compacts into blue glacier ice that is funnelled down the valleys of both glaciers, flowing under its own momentum as rivers of ice.
This enormous snowfall pushes ice down the valleys at rates up to 10 times faster than most valley glaciers, aided by a layer of water beneath the ice caused by the glacier's own weight pressing against the valley floor. The glaciers flow over large bedrock steps, causing the ice to break up into steep icefalls — spectacular mazes of crevasses, pinnacles and seracs that change from week to week.
Franz Josef Glacier
Named in 1863 by geologist Julius von Haast after the Emperor of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Franz Josef Glacier is approximately 7,000 years old. It extends 12 kilometres from three feeder glaciers in the high snow fields of the Alps, with its terminal face just 5 kilometres from the township and a mere 19 kilometres from the sea.
Its Māori name is Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere — "The Tears of the Avalanche Girl." The legend tells of Hinehukatere, who loved climbing in the mountains and persuaded her lover, Tawe, to climb with her. When Tawe fell from the peaks to his death, Hinehukatere was so broken-hearted that her many tears froze to form the glacier.
What to do at Franz Josef:
- Heli-Hike (the bucket-list experience): A helicopter flight onto the glacier followed by 2–2.5 hours hiking on the ice with crampons and an expert guide. You'll walk between towering ice columns, through narrow crevasses, and possibly into ice caves. The terrain changes constantly, so no two trips are alike. Currently around $800 NZD per person. Franz Josef Glacier Guides have exclusive landing access. Book well ahead — this sells out, and weather cancels roughly 60% of scheduled trips.
- Scenic helicopter flights: 20–40 minute flights over both glaciers with a snow landing. From around $300–$500 NZD. A great alternative if the heli-hike budget is too steep or you have limited mobility.
- Valley walk to the glacier face (free): An easy walk through the glacial valley to a viewpoint near the terminal face. About 1.5 hours return. You walk over ancient moraine — the rocks and debris left by the glacier's retreat — past waterfalls and dramatic cliff faces.
- Glow-worms: A short walk from the township to see glow-worms sparkling in the bush at night. Free and magical.
- Whataroa white herons: Nearby Whataroa is home to New Zealand's only breeding colony of kōtuku (white herons). Seasonal tours by jet boat or kayak.
Fox Glacier
Named after Sir William Fox, an early New Zealand Prime Minister, Fox Glacier falls 2,600 metres on its 13-kilometre journey towards the coast. The glacier is 300 metres deep and its terminal face is just 5 kilometres from the township. Fed by four alpine glaciers, Fox is slightly longer and less steep than Franz Josef.
What to do at Fox:
- Heli-hike on Fox: Fox Glacier offers a more relaxed heli-hike experience than Franz Josef. You fly in over the glacier then get dropped on a flatter section. You won't get the "surrounded by ice columns" feeling of Franz Josef, but Fox has small tunnels and caves to explore. Fox Glacier Guiding runs the full-day extreme adventure heli-hike.
- Lake Matheson (a must): One of New Zealand's most iconic photo spots. A beautiful bush-track walk follows the lake edge, where the still water perfectly reflects Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman, New Zealand's two highest peaks. Best at dawn when the reflections are sharpest. About 1.5 hours return. Free.
- Gillespies Beach seals: Up to 1,500 seals congregate during winter below Waikowhai Bluff, with smaller numbers in summer.
- Glow-worm trail: Walk through a small trail from the south end of the township at night to a grotto of ferns alive with glow-worms sparkling through the darkness. Free.
- Copeland Track: For serious trampers — an overnight walk to Welcome Flat Hut, which has natural hot pools. You can extend to two nights continuing to the next hut on the track.
Fox vs Franz Josef — Which One?
The guides always say the glaciers change from week to week, so you never know exactly what you're going to see. That's part of what makes them special — every visit is different.
Practical Information
- Getting there: Both townships are on SH6 on the West Coast. About 3.5 hours from Hokitika, 4.5 hours from Queenstown via the Haast Pass, or 4 hours from Greymouth. The TranzAlpine train from Christchurch to Greymouth connects you to the West Coast, then it's a drive south.
- Weather: The West Coast is one of the wettest places in New Zealand. Rain gear is essential year-round. Helicopter flights and heli-hikes are cancelled in bad weather (roughly 60% of the time at Franz Josef), so build at least two nights into your schedule to give yourself the best chance of flying.
- Fuel: Fill up before arriving — there are long gaps between fuel stations on the West Coast.
- Accommodation: Both Franz Josef and Fox have a range of lodges, motels and backpackers. Book ahead in summer — the towns are small and fill up fast.
- What to bring: Sunglasses (essential on the glacier), sunscreen, rain jacket, warm layers. Heli-hike operators provide boots, crampons, and outerwear.
